31 Oct-Delhi
A foggy, noisy (by the time my flight left visibility at the airport was about 200 meters!), smelly and muggy Halloween morning in Delhi and everyone seems to have dressed in Indian costumes for some reason. I am content to hang out in my air conditioned and windowless box of a room and watch the same shows repeating on Comedy Central and reruns of American Idol on the only two English channels, read the Snow Leopard and surf the web when the wifi works. For some reason, I have no desire to go out and explore the noisy, smelly streets around this little hotel in a Delhi enclave somewhere near the airport. This is the part of India I have no use for and will just hang out until my ride to the airport at noon. Funny how I miss the barking dogs of Leh and much prefer that sound to the constant beeping of Delhi traffic. I do have to admit, I don't mind not wearing 3 layers of clothes and did enjoy the long hot shower and not freezing when I stepped out of it (even if I did have to wait until this morning for hot water) and the two non-Godfather beers I had yesterday. The highlight was getting to FaceTime and actually SEE my lovely wife last night- even if the picture was frozen half the time.
Got my complimentary ride to the airport four hours ahead of departure and am waiting to check in three hours before ETD in Terminal 3. Will, Ian and Shannon will remember waiting here for hours, but at least it is not the middle of the night this time. I was able to exchange some rupees for the $40 I will need to purchase my 30 day visa at the airport in Katmandu. For some reason they will not accept Indian or Nepali rupees for this.
While waiting I am savoring the first strong cup of real black coffee (at American prices- in 24 hrs in Delhi, I have spent,as much as it cost me to live in Leh for 2 weeks! Get me outta here) in almost two months and finishing the Snow Leopard one day at a time (8 days to go before he makes it back to Katmandu). Such a good book to be reading now as I head to its origins and I think it is affecting my writing and thinking in a positive way. I am glad I have overcome my resistance to rereading books and happy to have re-experienced both the original Annapurna and this after almost 50 and 35 years respectively. It is so much better reading them in context and after learning more about the peoples, cultures and religions of the region by experience.
Just read the following quote from one of the Sherpas in the book:
"Of course I enjoy this life! It's wonderful! Especially when I have no choice" (Tukten Sherpa from the Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen, 1978). Even though I do have choices, it resonates as a great philosophy, especially when you don't!
Finally on the plane and in the air and one third of the way to Nepal we emerge from the nasty fog and the peaks of the Indian Himalayas appear on the horizon. I am pretty sure the largest and majestic triangular peak out my window to the North right now must be the beautiful goddess Nanda Devi (wish I had a good map), which many years ago inspired Willi Unsoeld to name his first daughter, our old friend, "Devi" in honor of. Brings back sad memories of a phone call to or from Zimiki, or maybe her mother, while driving across the country years ago, telling us Devi had died while high up on her namesake in an attempt to climb it with her dad, Willi.
1 Nov- Katmandu, Nepal
Talk about culture shock. The Thamel neighborhood and Katmandu Guest House ( where the Beatles stayed) are so different than what I've been living in in Ladakh! Small crowded streets teeming with Westerners and loud Rock and Roll until late at night.
Getting into Nepal was easy. Getting the visa took 5 min and was done, had my bags and out on the curb in 15 min. If you do come to Nepal be sure to bring the visa form and American cash and everything will be easy and fast. Met Rajendar, from the KGH at the curb and had to wait for another passenger. After about 15 min I finally asked what the person's name was. Turns out it was Pandi and she doesn't get here until tomorrow.
Unfortunately, by the time we left the airport it was dark, so I could not see much, but the rough ride in tons of traffic was just like any big Indian city until we arrived at Thamel.
Thamel is typical Asian narrow streets, except it is full of Western tourists and bars and restaurants with local rock and roll bands. It is easy to get lost in the maze of winding streets since all of the little shops sell exactly the same variety of 4-5 different things. At least until you enter the section where the fancy and expensive North Face, Mountain hardware, etc are located.
After a beer and great dinner last night I wandered across the street to an Irish pub with a local band playing lots of familiar rock and roll covers until 11. Ended up singing more songs with a bunch of local 20 somethings and an Irish girl from Belfast and her Aissie and Norge fiends.
Great breakfast buffet this morning and then met up with Nirku and Aji to work out our trekking permits. It took 2 hrs and Pandie now is my wife and has a made up visa....don't ask, but everything is a go for an early Saturday start.
Grabbed some lunch at a roof top cafe and headed to the palace museum which was closed and so wound my way down winding streets (very generous to call them that) to the old Durga Square/Palace. Saw the 10 year old "living goddess" and other Hindu temples, etc. Interesting to me that I am now seeing lots of beggars, lepers, etc which didn't exist in Ladakh.
A foggy, noisy (by the time my flight left visibility at the airport was about 200 meters!), smelly and muggy Halloween morning in Delhi and everyone seems to have dressed in Indian costumes for some reason. I am content to hang out in my air conditioned and windowless box of a room and watch the same shows repeating on Comedy Central and reruns of American Idol on the only two English channels, read the Snow Leopard and surf the web when the wifi works. For some reason, I have no desire to go out and explore the noisy, smelly streets around this little hotel in a Delhi enclave somewhere near the airport. This is the part of India I have no use for and will just hang out until my ride to the airport at noon. Funny how I miss the barking dogs of Leh and much prefer that sound to the constant beeping of Delhi traffic. I do have to admit, I don't mind not wearing 3 layers of clothes and did enjoy the long hot shower and not freezing when I stepped out of it (even if I did have to wait until this morning for hot water) and the two non-Godfather beers I had yesterday. The highlight was getting to FaceTime and actually SEE my lovely wife last night- even if the picture was frozen half the time.
Got my complimentary ride to the airport four hours ahead of departure and am waiting to check in three hours before ETD in Terminal 3. Will, Ian and Shannon will remember waiting here for hours, but at least it is not the middle of the night this time. I was able to exchange some rupees for the $40 I will need to purchase my 30 day visa at the airport in Katmandu. For some reason they will not accept Indian or Nepali rupees for this.
While waiting I am savoring the first strong cup of real black coffee (at American prices- in 24 hrs in Delhi, I have spent,as much as it cost me to live in Leh for 2 weeks! Get me outta here) in almost two months and finishing the Snow Leopard one day at a time (8 days to go before he makes it back to Katmandu). Such a good book to be reading now as I head to its origins and I think it is affecting my writing and thinking in a positive way. I am glad I have overcome my resistance to rereading books and happy to have re-experienced both the original Annapurna and this after almost 50 and 35 years respectively. It is so much better reading them in context and after learning more about the peoples, cultures and religions of the region by experience.
Just read the following quote from one of the Sherpas in the book:
"Of course I enjoy this life! It's wonderful! Especially when I have no choice" (Tukten Sherpa from the Snow Leopard, Peter Matthiessen, 1978). Even though I do have choices, it resonates as a great philosophy, especially when you don't!
Finally on the plane and in the air and one third of the way to Nepal we emerge from the nasty fog and the peaks of the Indian Himalayas appear on the horizon. I am pretty sure the largest and majestic triangular peak out my window to the North right now must be the beautiful goddess Nanda Devi (wish I had a good map), which many years ago inspired Willi Unsoeld to name his first daughter, our old friend, "Devi" in honor of. Brings back sad memories of a phone call to or from Zimiki, or maybe her mother, while driving across the country years ago, telling us Devi had died while high up on her namesake in an attempt to climb it with her dad, Willi.
1 Nov- Katmandu, Nepal
Talk about culture shock. The Thamel neighborhood and Katmandu Guest House ( where the Beatles stayed) are so different than what I've been living in in Ladakh! Small crowded streets teeming with Westerners and loud Rock and Roll until late at night.
Getting into Nepal was easy. Getting the visa took 5 min and was done, had my bags and out on the curb in 15 min. If you do come to Nepal be sure to bring the visa form and American cash and everything will be easy and fast. Met Rajendar, from the KGH at the curb and had to wait for another passenger. After about 15 min I finally asked what the person's name was. Turns out it was Pandi and she doesn't get here until tomorrow.
Unfortunately, by the time we left the airport it was dark, so I could not see much, but the rough ride in tons of traffic was just like any big Indian city until we arrived at Thamel.
Thamel is typical Asian narrow streets, except it is full of Western tourists and bars and restaurants with local rock and roll bands. It is easy to get lost in the maze of winding streets since all of the little shops sell exactly the same variety of 4-5 different things. At least until you enter the section where the fancy and expensive North Face, Mountain hardware, etc are located.
After a beer and great dinner last night I wandered across the street to an Irish pub with a local band playing lots of familiar rock and roll covers until 11. Ended up singing more songs with a bunch of local 20 somethings and an Irish girl from Belfast and her Aissie and Norge fiends.
Great breakfast buffet this morning and then met up with Nirku and Aji to work out our trekking permits. It took 2 hrs and Pandie now is my wife and has a made up visa....don't ask, but everything is a go for an early Saturday start.
Grabbed some lunch at a roof top cafe and headed to the palace museum which was closed and so wound my way down winding streets (very generous to call them that) to the old Durga Square/Palace. Saw the 10 year old "living goddess" and other Hindu temples, etc. Interesting to me that I am now seeing lots of beggars, lepers, etc which didn't exist in Ladakh.
It was a very good post indeed. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it in my lunch time. Will surely come and visit this blog more often. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteBestwyll