3 Nov
Day 1 Annapurna Circuit
Drive KTM to Baehishahar: 4:30 hrs
Trek 13 km Besishahar to Ngadi 4 hrs
Staying with Hori Krisha and his family at the Hotel Hilton Guest House with a view of Manasalu to the northeast.
Pandi arrived late last night (around midnight), checked in and went to sleep until our 5AM wake up. Nuri and our driver Ghokal arrived before 6 and by 6:30 we had breakfast, said goodbye to Nuri and hit the road. As we emerged from the city and headed along the river I was overwhelmed by the green vegetation and riotous golds, reds and yellows of all the tropical flowers as we eased to.the mountains. After Ladakh the warmth colors are breathtaking. Put on top of that the enormous white peaks towering in the distance and it's hard to describe.
In Besishahar we decided the road was too rough for the little Toyota, said goodbye to Ghokal and put on our packs and headed up the dusty road on the trek. My pack is very heavy: I think too,many books, snacks, electronics and may be the 2.5 liters of water and 1.5 liters of vodka Pandie brought! The road wasn't as bad as people made it seem and the hike to the beginning of the trail was quite pleasant. Had lunch at Bhulbhule and crossed the river on a swinging suspension bridge and hit the real trail. A lovely walk along the river to Nhadi through forests of giant rhododendron poinsettia trees and millions of tropical wildflowers, varied species of colorful butterflies and the annoying sounds of the locusts. Passed a lovely guest house too near Bhulbhule with a view of a beautiful waterfall and the promise of good coffee. Then we met Hori and walked with him and his wife to the guest house. Nice to take off the pack and shoes and then enjoyed a cup of sweet lemon grass tea with some of the vodka watching the sun set over Mansalu. Lovely day and start to the trek. Shared some vodka with Hori and his wife and they drank a lot! (next morning Hori says, that was strong! But then asked for some more as we left!)
Thali dinner, raksi (local distiller millet) and then the local kids showed up and we danced and sang local Nepali songs and dances for quite awhile under the stars in the yard. Hori and all his family are very welcoming and fun and want us to stay an extra day for free. His son also wants us to hire him as a porter guide. He would be great, but not in the plans.
Early to bed and an early rise tomorrow- hope to make it to Chamje tomorrow.
5 Nov
Day 2: Ngadi to Shrechaur
Boomerang Guest House
Bad news: my camera is broken! Luckily I have the iPhone and hopefully will find something to buy that will use my card and batteries when I get to Manang. Bring 2 cameras.....
Pleasant and relatively easy walking along the Marsyangadi through flowers ( white daturas, red hibiscus) and large tropical trees including bananas and tons of multicolored and varied butterflies. Left around 7:30 after a nice breakfast and pictures with Hori's family. As we walked through the village we picked up the first of our new party, Ayul- 23 yr old Israeli just out of the army spending the typical year in Asia. His father is a physics prof at the Weitzman and probably lows Dad or other family friends....Great kid and fun to spend the day with. Stopped for tea near Bhahundana and picked up our next member: Mike, a talkative 51 year old retiree from Galway, Ireland doing the circuit and has never backpacked! The tea shop owner showed us his garden with orange, lemon and banana trees and his stash of marijuana.
Had a nice lunch of beers and noodles at the Crystal Guest House in Germu and then off to Shrechaur (Hori's recommendation) where we stayed at the Boomerang Guesthouse. Took a disappointing trip to the local hot springs. The 15 minute walk turned into a 50 min adventure and ended up at a warm pipe down by the river. Don't go...
Had a nice dinner and visit from the owner and his son- both teachers: the father primary and the son English and maths and getting his MEd. Interesting discussions about the impact of the road (the locals down low don't like it because the Trekkers will by pass) and the history of this region where most are Tibetan refugees who arrived 50 yrs ago (not the 500 we initially were told).
Day 3: Shrechaur to Tal (1700)
Paradise Guest House in deep canyon in shadow of 2 huge waterfalls.
Today Ayul left us to push on faster than the old folks and the three of us (mike and Pandie) headed off around 7:30 heading towards Dharapani. Steep canyons and lots of steep climbing. Somewhat sparser vegetation but still plenty of flowers and butterflies! Met Yevgeny, a sailor from Ukraine who knows Umun! Tea in Chamje and then crossed the river on a long suspension bridge.
Here is where the trail started a steep and long ascent up stone stairs towards Tal. Mike and I started out at a steady pace and Pandie fell quickly behind. We just kept pressing on assuming she would catch up later. Stopped every so often to see if we could spot her (didn't) and then continued on assuming we would wait in Tal.... Arrived in Tal (ran into Ayul who had taken a wrong trail and bee lost for 1.5 hrs! And was heading out again) and ordered lunch at the Paradise and waited. Suddenly my phone rings-Pandie! She had borrowed someone's phone and was calling to look for us. Apparently she had also wandered off the trail and been lost for an hour. She finally arrived 2 hrs after us and we decided to stay in this lovely little village along the river with 2 incredible waterfalls out our window. The plan is to head out early tomorrow morning and make it to Koto at 2640 meters....assuming nobody gets lost.
6 Nov
Day 4 Tal to Chame (2650 meters, 9 hrs)
Tea in Dharapani
Lunch in Timang
Guesthouse: Manaslu View - hot shower,wash clothes and a proper crapper -no squatting tonight!
Dinner: Yak Curry (not certain if it is really yak, since I have not seen any yet, also they seem to cook it by drying it over the open cook stove)
Left Tal at 6:30 and made good easy progress along the river slowly gaining altitude. Leaving Tal we passed through fields of marijuana along the river. The vegetation slowly changed from the tropical to subalpine through oak deciduous forest with acorns on the trail and apple orchards (bought a few from a man walking down the trail also trying to sell his apple brandy for 500NPR) to pine and hemlock and cooling temperatures. Some very steep climbs up many stone stairs, but "slowly slowly" gets it done. Eventually turned the corner and the Annapurnas appear towering over us. We picked up a new partner early this morning, Zhong a chinese secretary from Beijing trekking on her own. Pandie is practicing her chinese on her. Our entourage now includes Pandie, me, Irish Mike, the Chinese secretary, Ayul (if we ever run into him again) and occasionally a young swiss/kiwi (marcel and?) couple from Davos.
An amazing lunch on the roof of a restaurant with the Masalu range in the background. At lunch we met 2 separate Swiss groups mtn biking the entire circuit!
A slight mishap when Pandie slipped on a downhill outside the village of Thyanchowk and it literally knocked the shit out of her (actually brought on a diarrhea bout) and she now has a swollen ankle.
I also almost got knocked off a cliff by a wild Himalayan cowboy galloping on a horse. The horse didn't want to go where he wanted and backed up into me.....
BTW: my pack is definitely heavier than it needs to be ( and about 3x Pandie's), but you can't complain when the little porters in flip flops carry 50+kilos with a tump line (head strap) pass by easily)!
Reached Chame, the administrative center of the Manang District, about 4 and chose the Manaslu View hotel. Lovely views of Manasalu and the Annapurnas out our window. They have Internet here so will send some emails in a bit and find put election results tomorrow morning. Also, Pemba, the owner agreed to sell me his camera! And there is a bank here where I can get cash to pay. So, will wait until the bank opens and get some money before. leaving for Pesang.
Pandie will stay here tomorrow, explore the area and then take a jeep all the way back to Besishahar on Thursday and a bus to Katmandu. I know she wanted to get to Upper Pesang but with her ankle and making sure she gets back to catch her plane in time she really has no choice. It's been a good easy trek with her, but starting tomorrow I will probably speed things up a bit as I head to Pasang and then to Manang on Thursday.
Disappointing, but not unexpected, to not see any wildlife so far. Basically, cows, water buffalo, horse and donkeys, goats and chickens. Not even a yak or dzo yet. Birds pretty much limited to crows and various dove and pigeons. The occasional small wren or warbler whistles a pretty tune and we did see a dipper in the river. Have seen a few colorful katydids, prey manti and some crazy huge bees with giant orange heads.
Keeping my eye out for a yeti or snow leopard-always!
The human crowds are really not bad and way less than I had understood. The books describe Oct/Nov as the high season for trekking this route but the real high season must be Oct. most of the crowds have been larger parties going the other way on their return from the 17 day Manasalu trek, but we passed that intersection yesterday and they have disappeared.
Also, the new road is really not as bad for trekking as we had read and heard. It is a bit dusty when jeeps pass, but the traffic is light and the hiking easy. The scenery is still great. Anyway, the road ends from here on until Jomson.
In the Snow Leopard, PM describes the biologist, George Schaller's (UAF /IAB alumnus) first attempts at writing haiku along this route. Here is my first attempt:
An undulating trail
Follows green river
Arrive at Annapurna
7 Nov
Day 5: Chame to Upper Pisang (3300 meters, 5:30 hr, 15 km)
Elevation Gain: 700 meters
Lunch: Bhratang
Guesthouse: Annapurna
Dinner: Mixed fried spaghetti
Peaks out the window: Lamjung Himal, Annapurna II and IV, Manasalu
Cold morning (laundry frozen), Late start, bye bye Pandie.
Up early and watching election returns on CNN (until the power went out) drinking coffee and eating our porridge. Called S and had a nice talk until the SIM card ran out. Turns out it is about 4x more to call from here than from India. Will have to make them shorter (maybe more often though). Hopefully S will text the election results this evening when she gets up. It was close when the power cut!
Bought the camera from Pemba and then had to wait until the bank (the only one for over a week) opened at 10 to get replacement cash. In the meantime recharged the phone and bought a liter of agua from the clean water refill station. Realized the bank was open when a tall guard carry a shotgun walked out. Went in and he followed us...
Turns out the bank doesn't do cash advances (no ATMs until the end), but the place I recharged the phone has Western Union cash advances with a 10% fee. At least I have enough for the trip AND a camera!
We (Irish Mike) left Pandie in the middle of Chame a little after 10 trying to decide whether to take the jeep at 11 today or tomorrow morning.......? Hope whatever she makes it back safely and in time.
Not super long, but the hardest day yet with lots of steep climbing continuing up the Marsyangdi closer to its source at Manang. 5 suspension bridge crossings high above the river, some the new metal ones and 2 older wooden ones (not sure how someone with fear of heights would do on this trek). Good hour break for lunch (fried potato/vege/egg) under Annapurna II. Lunch always takes at least an hour, but at least it is made fresh and I guess the break is good. Then another long hard climb up to10,000' to U Pesang arriving at around 4. Today the cars ended on the road. There is no bridge past Chame even though the road is finished to the next village. Even after that, except for a few places the road seems to be mostly ready to Lower Pesang and beyond. We actually spent a lit more time off the road now and the final 2k climb to Upper Pesang is totally on trails and will continue that way tomorrow.
We are now almost at treeline and the forest is definitely alpine conifers-mostly smaller pines, larch and cedar and looks much like the high alpine Rockies, except the peaks are twice as high and steeper. Even the horses and cattle and local Nepalis could fit right in- the people could easily be mistaken for native Americans. A strange sight was the appearance along the trail (for the first time) of people selling local trinkets, and sometimes not even very close to a village. There is also a very cold stiff breeze and I know it will be cold tonight (even saw some ice along the trail in the shady areas this afternoon). The wood fire in the dining area is much appreciated right now!
Wandered into the village and up steep winding paths past a number of primitive, but nice, guesthouses to the monastery at the top. Amazing view of Annapurna II, and free tea from the monks. Never saw a Buddha statue with flashing Xmas lights around his head before! When we arrived at the monastery there was Ayul. We walked back down and found a reasonable room. I discovered my only warm hat had fallen out of my pocket someplace. Walked back and ran into a Swiss couple who had picked it up!
8 Nov- Obama wins, the world is safe!
Day 6
Upper Pisang to Manang (upper trail, 7 hrs, 3540 meters)
Tea: Ghyaru (3730 m)
Lunch: Ngawal, vege/fried noodle atPeaceful Guesthouse
Guesthouse: Hotel Yeti- room with attached toilet.
Dinner: Yak fajitas
Up at 6:30, breakfast (apple porridge and weak coffee) at 7 and trekking by 7:30.
Long hard climb up to the village and small Gompa in Ghyaru (Mike did well but definitely slower and feeling the height), a cup of tea and visit with fellow Trekkers for a bit and off along the ridge line to Ngawal. Much easier! And a bunch of eagles and lammergeier ( bearded vulture) soaring below us.
Early lunch at the Peaceful Guesthouse in Ngawal and Ayul caught up. The proprietor informed me of election results and I hugged him (guess I can come home before 4 years!). Herds of yak and great views of Annapurna II, IV, III and a number of other peaks towering over.
Ancient Tibetan Village
Fifty wooly yak
Annapurna II,IV, III
or
Ancient Tibetan Village
Fifty wooly yak
Obama is president
Then another relatively easy walk back down to the river and about 3 hrs to the BIG village of Manang. Very cold here and a biting wind. Checked into the large Hotel Yeti and got a double room with attached bath and very nice beds! Got here at 2:45, hot water lasts til 3, so a quick shower, washed some clothes, and then checked email, election results, a cup of real coffee and an apple Danish. Checked out the town with Ayul, and made plans to watch Into Thin Air at the theater tonight at 7.
Today's trek was the first totally away from roads and through more traditional Tibetan type villages and quite delightful.
Tomorrow will be a rest day here for Mike and Ayul to acclimate- maybe a local trek, and then Saturday will take. 2-3 day side trek to Tilicho Lake at 4000 meters, before heading over the Thorung La.
The yak fajita was a treat and then everyone came out of Thin Air depressed and scared of the mountains. A good deal though, 200 NPR for a seat next to the wood stove , a bag of popcorn and cup of tea. Did meet a young UK doctor, Tom, volunteering for the season (12 weeks) with the Himalayan Medical team that runs trekker and local clinics here and one near Everest.
9 Nov
Day 7: Rest day in Manang
Up by 7 and wandered down to a bakery that served real coffee, then came back and had breakfast (eggs, real fresh baked bread/toast and hash browns!) at the hotel (the rooms are always very cheap, but if you don't eat breakfast and dinner at the hotel/ guesthouse they raise the price 2-4x-food is how they make money here). At breakfast I met a young US couple (there are very few Americans here- mostly German, French, Swiss) traveling and trying to work in India/Nepal for a couple of years. Anyway, it turned out they have 2 Garmin GPS with memory chips with all of Asia and Russia including ALL of the trails here on them. I am carrying a GPS. With no maps. They sold me one of the chips and now we will be able to use the GPS for more than an altimeter! This will be useful in the next few days as there are some shortcuts that are on the GPS maps that will mean we don't have to backtrack to Manang after Tilicho Lake.
Nice, but short talk with S.
Then went to find Ayul to head to a hike 500 meters above town to the Prakep Gompa. I think he is feeling the altitude and stayed behind. mile and I made the pilgrimage up with about 40 other Trekkers. Beautiful views of the village, lake and mountains. Very nice walking without my pack! The draw of the Gompa is the 94 yr old Tashi Lama who lives there with his daughter and blesses the Trekkers for a safe crossing of the pass and a blessing string for 100 NPR (you also get tea, or for 500 you getrayer beads). On the way back down, I figured out he probably makes about $7000 during the 12 weeks trekking season (average Nepali makes about $2000/ yr)- not bad work!
On the way up to the Gompa we were behind a group,of Trekkers with 2 young Nepali girls. Turns out the Trekkers were Dutch, but the 2 girls were there porters from the 6 Sisters Trekking Company, which hires only women guides and porters. They were 20 yrs old cute small and when trekking carried 40 kg! They were also very fun and giggly and a bit mischievous- running down the trail and then stopping and. Pretending to block. I town I was looking at some trinkets and one jokingly tried to get me to buy her one.
Lunch at Mavis' Kitchen (Mavis is half Chinese, but went to catholic school and was given the name- keeps it because it is easier for the Trekkers) with Mike and Ayul. After lunch Mike and I had pastries (incredible apple pie) and another cup of jo before going to Dr Tom's talk on high altitude sickness. Turns out one thing that adds to the chances of getting HAS is being under 50. When I asked why, he enjoyed (and so did the audience) telling me that over 50 our brains shrink enough that you don't feel the pressure as much and thus less chance of headaches! After the talk Mike spoke to the doctor and decided to start taking preventive dose(half) of diamox.
At 5 we plan to watch 7 years in Tibet and then dinner at 7:30. Saw the end of the movie last night before Thin Air and realized now after living it in Ladakh it would be fun to watch again.
10 Nov
Day 8: Manang to Tilicho Lake Basecamp (side trip) 4150 meters (600 meter climb), 5:20, 14.5 km
Breakfast: muesli, toast and coffee
Tea: Shree Karka
Lunch: at Tilichco Basecamp: fried noodles w/vege,egg, cheese
Guesthouse:Hotel New Tilichco Basecamp (brand new, opened Oct 8), 100 NPR
Trek:WOW- enough said
Animals: yak, small herd of blue sheep and a few eagles
Depart Manang: 7:30, arrive Basecamp at 12:50, Mike arrived about 30 min behind me.
Up at 6:30, breakfast at 7 (as usual) and hit the trail by 7:30 in lots of clothes, but stripped down 30 min later as the sun came up and we were working. Ayul wasn't quite ready and said he would meet us at Basecamp-'we will see...
Wasn't positive how things would go as Mike had a bout of the trots last night, but Imodium seemed to work wonders and he trudged along coming in to the hotel about 30 min after I arrived while I was eating lunch. Unfortunately he had a mishap and one of the straps on his pack is ripped. We will have to figure how to mend it. (borrowed some zip ties and that seems to be a solution-future trekking:bring zip ties in addition to duct tape) I also had a minor equipment failure- my belt broke, but so far a little duct tape is working.
Beautiful trek all on trails with very few other Trekkers until we got near the end and passed a number of people returning to Shree Karka or another 4 hrs further to Yak Karka on the way up to Thorung La Pass after doing Tilicho Lake from Basecamp early this morning (probably our plan for tomorrow). Incredible views and very steep climbs, including about 5 km along the contours in the middle of huge, steep scree slopes with numerous slide areas. A bit treacherous, but not terrible. The GPS was definitely iseful in finding trails today.
Got a room in a brand new hotel with a very open sunny dining area for 100 NPR. There is a giant solar cooker outside the window cooking up a pot of boiling water-nice. After scarfing down a hearty noodle lunch, I cleaned up with some baby wipes (no shower or electricity here), changed and washed out my socks and underwear in the freezing stream. May take a little walk up the trail towards Tilicho Lake (5000 meters) in a bit. Others say the hike up to the worlds highest lake early in the morning is well worth it and a couple of Germans described seeing what sounds like a herd of Tibetan antelope yesterday. There is a 74 year old German man here doing the trek. He got lost this morning on the way up to the lake and did not make it. I also met another single Chinese woman who got lost on her way up to Basecamp a couple of days ago and had to spend a night out! Also ran into our Chinese friend Zhou who had been to the lake today and was headed to Shree Karka tomorrow (will probably see her there)
As I sit here in the lodge the immense and monstrous Annapurna Himal ridge towers above us at 7000 meters. It is a daunting high, long ridge which I believe is what Herzog called the Great Barrier and was one of the big obstacles they had to surmount and figure how to get around in order to even figure out where Annapurna I was and if it was possible to climb. I also finally was able to figure out that what he called the Giant Ice Lake is Tilicho. Reading the book in Ladakh was a bit confusing, but now rereading it with the map and the mountains right in front of me it all starts to make sense!
11 Nov (Veterans Day in the US, and Independence Day in Poland)
Day 8
Tilicho Base Camp- Tilicho Lake (5000 meters- worlds highest lake, 4 hrs total, 2 up, 1 down, 1 hr,for pictures and tea)-back to Base Camp-Shree Karka
Guesthouse: Hotel Tilicho Peak
Depart: 6:30 back to BC by 10:30, second breakfast (apple pancake and fried eggs), pack up and off to Shree Karka at 11.
There is no electricity up here so, after dinner headed to the room and spent until 7:30 reading with headlamp in sleeping bag and then an early sleep- pretty fitful and awake around 3 and read some more. Up in the cold and dark by 5:30 (did a little surgery on the dead dry skin on my left little toe- feels much better now), breakfast at 6 and started up the trail by 6:30 in the cold. Lots of layers. More incredible scenery and steep climbs, but actually relatively easy going, especially with only a light daypack. Saw a small band of blue sheep (all ewes), more eagles and yaks. Caught up to the few who had started before me, including 2 young German mountain bikers. Made it to the lake by 8:30, before the wind started, and had amazing views of the lake, surrounding glaciers and peaks. I was met at the small tea house with a high five by Ramesh (Chandra= moon, nickname Cycle Jackson), the guide for the 2 mtn bikers, Florian (air traffic controller) and Dominique(physiotherapist, but now a med student). He had walked up a bit before me and we struck up a nice conversation. He told me some good information about places to go and stay from here on out. Also turns out he has finished in the top 10 of the Everest Marathon 5 times and races mtn bikes (has completed the 11 stage Yak Attack mtn bike race from Katmandu over the Thorung La Pass) and mtn unicycles ( the only Nepali). When the bikers arrived at the top the wind had come up and one of them had frozen fingers and only bike gloves-leant him my ski gloves (I was wearing liners and was OK). Had some tea, took pictures and headed down before Mike arrived. One hour down and went most of the way with Ramesh.
At the Basecamp, changed, had lunch and when Mike arrived we set out for Shree Karka, back along the steep scree. Arrived at the guesthouse around 1:30 and got the last room! Recharged camera and iPod (although it doesn't really charge quickly in the cold). Sat around in the nice sunroom and finished a book. Meeting more Trekkers. There is a big Polish group, with one young talkative high school kid. Also met a young PhD student from Boulder dong her project on the economic effects of the new road on the area. Turns out she might have been Emily's TA....?
Very cold here and seems as if clouds are moving in tonight for the first time. Hope they blow out tonight and we don't get any snow.
Training and walking at altitude: been thinking a lot about the effects of the acclimatization I did living at 3500 meters for 2 months and it's affects on my ability to trek here and also about what effects slow trekking 7 hrs a day with 15-20 kilos on my back at these altitudes will have on racing this winter.
I am definitely not racing, but am also clearly walking far faster than almost all of the other Trekkers, especially when climbing. It is more pronounced the steeper the trail and also seems to be a bigger difference as we get higher. I am sure that living at altitude with multiple excursions to 5 and 6000 meters has helped and been responsible for the lack of any altitude symptoms. I will bet my hematocrit is close to that of dope Lance by now. When we get to the steep stuff and slow down, I can't imagine walking any slower without stopping, but obviously most are. I think it is partly due to technique. I have been mainly doing a version of ski walking and also use my walking poles a lot when climbing. I have noticed that most people have no idea how to use them efficiently ( I gave Mike a few lessons) and I think the combination of ski walking with pole use gives me much more distance up for each step....
As far as training for skiing, I definitely am getting a huge base, and because of using the poles I think I am keeping my upper body strong. Obviously, I am also building up RBCs. I think I will probably have great endurance, but It will be interesting to see whether I can develop speed and how long it will take with intervals once I return to snow at home and lower elevation.
12 Nov
Day 9
Shree Karka to Thoren Pedi (Pedi= foot of the hill- just below the Thorang La, 4540 meters, 7:20-1:20, 16.5 km)
Lunch: Yak Karka
Guesthouse: Thorung Basecamp Lodge
Woke up to find my water and contact solution frozen, but at least the clouds were gone and no wind yet.
Trek: left Shree Karka at 7:20 in multilayers which were removed after 30 min of climbing. Ramesh, Florian and Dominique caught up around the same time on their bikes and Ramesh offered to get us a room at TP for tonight. He seems to have latched onto and sort of adopted me and is sort of acting like my guide....?
Rather quickly left Mile behind on the climb up past Upper Karsang (a deserted Yak camp) and actually never saw him after that (we agreed to meet at TP and I would get a room). After a climb and over a ridge the valley opened up towards the main valley and regular trail from Manang to the pass. Over the top was a nasty steep 30 min descent which did a number on the knees. Then another hour climb up to the main trail and into Yak Karka where I had lunch with the bikers. Again Ramesh got my order and they gave me some of their thermos of tea. Ate and waited about 45 min but no Mike, so headed up the trail to Thoren Phedi. After about an hour and a half Ramesh caught me- amazing watching him ride, but even more amazing is watching him climb with his bike balanced on his head-no hands! Another hour slog up to TP. About 1PM the afternoon cold valley wind came up and I changed back into layers for the last 20 min. Arrived, and Ramesh had a big sunny room for us (not sure why but he gave us the bigger nicer one than his clients- and told me not to tell them....? No shower but a nice large cozy dining hall with real coffee and great chocolate pastries. I did wash myself of with banyan wipes and put on my clean clothes, tended to my little toe and ordered dinner for tonight (you need to order when you arrive with a desired time or your dinner gets backed up behind everyone else). Got some of my gear organized and water ready and purified so I can just hop out of bed throw on some clothes and shoes and hit the trail at 4. You need to leave so early to miss the winds at the top. Now I am lying around in our sunny room (except the afternoon clouds are coming in) waiting for Mike to show- so far it has been 2 hrs and I sure hope he makes it and nothing happened. If he does not get here tonight, I will plan to leave anyway by myself. (mike rolled in around 4-everything OK)
Tons of people, mostly groups with guides, here tonight preparing for the big slog over the pass tomorrow. It was a fun evening in the main lodge watching group politics. First we were sitting at a table with a mixed group (not previous friends) of Brits, a scot and an older gentleman from Bolzano with lots of mountain experience. They had a big argue net about when to leave in the morning with the Sud Tyrolian being the dissenter. It was getting pretty heated as I excused us. Guess they sorted it out. The dining area is huge and divided into 3 areas with one being nearer the kitchen and warmer. We were sitting at one of these tables with Florian a Chinese fellow and a fun Polish mother and daughter when a Frenchman that we had met a couple of nights ago in Manang came by and pulled a piece of paper from under a glass that said reserved for 9 (these tables can easily hold14-16) and told us to leave. We ended up in the cold room doing a lot of trashing of the stereotypical rude French and it made the evening very entertaining.
Everything is paid up and we are mostly packed so getting out in the morning will be fast.
13 Nov
Day 10
Thoren Pedi (4540) to Thorung La (5416) to Muktinath (3800) (13.3 km)
Departure:4AM (-10C)
Arrive Muktinath: 1:30
Guesthouse: Royal Mustang
Muktinath is the holiest pilgrimage in the Himalayas for both Hindus and Buddhists but also has the Bob Marley guesthouse and offers an amazing view of the immense Dhaulagiri and the smaller Nilgiri.
Very cold night and a crazy early wake up at 3:40 to get dressed in multilayers and double gloves, grab coffee and head up the trail for the 1000 m climb to Thorung La in the dark. The dining area was filled with Trekkers and their guides and porters getting their breakfasts. It was hard to get anything if you didn't have a guide, but I managed and we actually started climbing with headlights under a clear star filled sky on time. Joined the long line of headlights, which eventually stretched with hundreds of Trekkers over about 5 km! A crazy sight. Quickly started overtaking long lines of 15-30 Trekkers with their noses up each other' s arse and stopping about every 10 meters. Passing on the narrow trail in the dark was a bit tricky, but definitely worth the effort. Once past each group it was just the trail, music (first use of the iPod and it was wonderful), and Orion's belt directly overhead, until you reached the next group. Took off a couple of upper layers after 30 min and then had overtaken everyone leaving Thoren Pedi by the time we reached High Camp an hour later. A large number of groups had overnighted at high camp and were starting from there as, or just before I arrived and another set of long lines of headlights to pass. Eventually, within about 30 min of the summit I had nobody to pass and was on my own as the sun started rising behind turning the peaks lavender and pink. Luckily, by now I could turn off my headlight as the battery was starting to run out from the cold. The cold had also frozen the tube of my Camelback and my other water bottle (was able to break through the ice on top and open with my walking stick tip) and seems to have nipped the tip of one finger a bit). I was the first trekker to arrive, with a few porters at the summit and had tea and bought warm water (also was offered to buy hashish!), hung around for about 30 min and then started the long 1600 meter descent to Muktinath with a stop at a tea stall about 1 hr from Muktinath where I had fresh apple juice and Swiss Rosti with a bunch of Israelis. Then walked the rest of the way to town and the hotel. Showered, had clothes washed and checked and sent emails. Nice to be clean and hear news after 4 days away from civilization.
The bikers arrived awhile a couple of hours later (Mike about 2.5) and I had a cafe latte and apple pie with them while they ate yak burgers (they continued on down to Kagbeni after) and told me their unfortunate story of helping a porter with pulmonary edema and bringing him down from the top on their bikes. Dominique, the med student, was still pretty upset and pissed off because of the all of the other Trekkers who refused to help!
It also, obviously ruined their big downhill ride, but they should score lots of karma points! Mike arrived, I showed him the room, and we bid farewell to the bikers.
I walked up to the Hindu/Buddhist temple above town and now am sitting outside the room in the sun. Will head to the restaurant for a beer and yak burger soon.
Actually ended up having a beer at the Bob Marley Hotel with a couple of young Germans who had helped Mike fix his pack and then came back and had another beer and a yak burger at our guesthouse and an interesting conversation with Malcolm from Wales (my age) and Walter, an older,retired,very interesting Sud Tyrolian from Bolzano, living in Wales.
Tomorrow will be a latish start and we will head off the main trail to go through one of the last remaining villages that still observes the ancient Bonpo religion and then onto Khagnbeni for the night.
Today I decided it is stupid to keep saying Namaste to non-Nepalis ( Everyone does as they pass) and will now greet them with an American greeting and reserve Namaste for locals.
14 Nov
Day 12
Muktinath to Lubre (or Lupra) to Kagbeni (5.5 hrs)
Beautiful, mixed day and an adventure-hardest day for me yet!
Woke up at 6 in a cold room to Dhaulagiri looming out the window next to my bed in the sunrise!
Breakfast in the dining room and goodbyes to Walter and others. Walked To the tourist office to find out about the trail we intended to take but it was closed- the man went on Holiday starting today, but found out where the trail started.
Tried to call Shannon, but the phones that were working last night were not today. Set off at 9 (relatively late) and easily found the trail to Lubre on the west of town near the jeep stand where many groups were finishing their treks and getting rides out to Pokhara. The rest of the Trekkers seemed to be heading down the road, either to the big city of Jomson or to Kagbeni. We seemed to be the only ones taking the side ( and longer trek to Lubre) and were definitely alone, except for 4 other Trekkers we could see ahead. A steep climb of about an hour over alpine tundra/desert (much like Ladakh now) and then the absolutely hardest part of the trek for me so far- 1600 m down to the river and into Lubre. I did have one slip and was worried about overextending my knee, but it seems to be OK-phew!
We arrived in the center of the small village just as all the local school kids were dancing and singing in costume to celebrate the beginning of Dewali (Nepalis biggest holiday)! The main reason for going there was to see the only remaining monastery of the Bonpo, animistic religion on the circuit. There is a pre12th century Gompa - we waited around for the lama (not wearing any special robes and did not make us take shoes off?) to finish lunch. He took us up and unlocked the door and showed us around for 100 NPR. Except for the one statue of Shiva, I couldn't really tell any difference between this Gompa and all the other Buddhist ones I've been too... Anyway, it was pretty cool to go to a village that it seems hardly any other Trekkers go to and to avoid the road which almost everyone else went down. From Lubre to Kagbeni was a bit of an adventure and we were not quite certain where we were going, but trusted the locals and the GPS. We ended up walking down the wide, deep stream bed of a tributary to the Kali Gandaki against a 30-40 MPH dusty headwind- not fun. Eventually intersected the main road/trail to Jomson with Trekkers and jeeps heading down. We turned right and headed NE with a tailwind to Ekle Bhatti (a late lunch of Maggi) and then to Kagbeni. The tailwind was even nasty-strong enough to push you sideways when it pushes for the side. Saw 2 eagles and a lammergeier along the river. Room at New Annapurna Guesthouse-free if we buy dinner and breakfast. Supposedly free wifi! But the Internet is down, and I do seem to have phone service, so will call Shannon when she wakes up Wednesday morning.
Nice dinner of chicken spaghetti with mushroom sauce and half a Tuborg.
After dinner the kids from the local school and all the teachers were here in costumes to celebrate Diwali and we had a fun time dancing and singing together.
Thought about staying here 2 nights and walking into the restricted Mustang as far as you can, but it seems you can only go 1.5 km from here. It would maybe be an interesting trip into the Mustang area someday. It takes a $500 permit/person, guide and a max of 10 days and I believe they only issue a few thousand permits/ yr. It seems to be a pretty traditional area with more wildlife.....
15 Nov
Day 13
Kagbeni to Jomson to Marpha
Day 1 Annapurna Circuit
Drive KTM to Baehishahar: 4:30 hrs
Trek 13 km Besishahar to Ngadi 4 hrs
Staying with Hori Krisha and his family at the Hotel Hilton Guest House with a view of Manasalu to the northeast.
Pandi arrived late last night (around midnight), checked in and went to sleep until our 5AM wake up. Nuri and our driver Ghokal arrived before 6 and by 6:30 we had breakfast, said goodbye to Nuri and hit the road. As we emerged from the city and headed along the river I was overwhelmed by the green vegetation and riotous golds, reds and yellows of all the tropical flowers as we eased to.the mountains. After Ladakh the warmth colors are breathtaking. Put on top of that the enormous white peaks towering in the distance and it's hard to describe.
In Besishahar we decided the road was too rough for the little Toyota, said goodbye to Ghokal and put on our packs and headed up the dusty road on the trek. My pack is very heavy: I think too,many books, snacks, electronics and may be the 2.5 liters of water and 1.5 liters of vodka Pandie brought! The road wasn't as bad as people made it seem and the hike to the beginning of the trail was quite pleasant. Had lunch at Bhulbhule and crossed the river on a swinging suspension bridge and hit the real trail. A lovely walk along the river to Nhadi through forests of giant rhododendron poinsettia trees and millions of tropical wildflowers, varied species of colorful butterflies and the annoying sounds of the locusts. Passed a lovely guest house too near Bhulbhule with a view of a beautiful waterfall and the promise of good coffee. Then we met Hori and walked with him and his wife to the guest house. Nice to take off the pack and shoes and then enjoyed a cup of sweet lemon grass tea with some of the vodka watching the sun set over Mansalu. Lovely day and start to the trek. Shared some vodka with Hori and his wife and they drank a lot! (next morning Hori says, that was strong! But then asked for some more as we left!)
Thali dinner, raksi (local distiller millet) and then the local kids showed up and we danced and sang local Nepali songs and dances for quite awhile under the stars in the yard. Hori and all his family are very welcoming and fun and want us to stay an extra day for free. His son also wants us to hire him as a porter guide. He would be great, but not in the plans.
Early to bed and an early rise tomorrow- hope to make it to Chamje tomorrow.
5 Nov
Day 2: Ngadi to Shrechaur
Boomerang Guest House
Bad news: my camera is broken! Luckily I have the iPhone and hopefully will find something to buy that will use my card and batteries when I get to Manang. Bring 2 cameras.....
Pleasant and relatively easy walking along the Marsyangadi through flowers ( white daturas, red hibiscus) and large tropical trees including bananas and tons of multicolored and varied butterflies. Left around 7:30 after a nice breakfast and pictures with Hori's family. As we walked through the village we picked up the first of our new party, Ayul- 23 yr old Israeli just out of the army spending the typical year in Asia. His father is a physics prof at the Weitzman and probably lows Dad or other family friends....Great kid and fun to spend the day with. Stopped for tea near Bhahundana and picked up our next member: Mike, a talkative 51 year old retiree from Galway, Ireland doing the circuit and has never backpacked! The tea shop owner showed us his garden with orange, lemon and banana trees and his stash of marijuana.
Had a nice lunch of beers and noodles at the Crystal Guest House in Germu and then off to Shrechaur (Hori's recommendation) where we stayed at the Boomerang Guesthouse. Took a disappointing trip to the local hot springs. The 15 minute walk turned into a 50 min adventure and ended up at a warm pipe down by the river. Don't go...
Had a nice dinner and visit from the owner and his son- both teachers: the father primary and the son English and maths and getting his MEd. Interesting discussions about the impact of the road (the locals down low don't like it because the Trekkers will by pass) and the history of this region where most are Tibetan refugees who arrived 50 yrs ago (not the 500 we initially were told).
Day 3: Shrechaur to Tal (1700)
Paradise Guest House in deep canyon in shadow of 2 huge waterfalls.
Today Ayul left us to push on faster than the old folks and the three of us (mike and Pandie) headed off around 7:30 heading towards Dharapani. Steep canyons and lots of steep climbing. Somewhat sparser vegetation but still plenty of flowers and butterflies! Met Yevgeny, a sailor from Ukraine who knows Umun! Tea in Chamje and then crossed the river on a long suspension bridge.
Here is where the trail started a steep and long ascent up stone stairs towards Tal. Mike and I started out at a steady pace and Pandie fell quickly behind. We just kept pressing on assuming she would catch up later. Stopped every so often to see if we could spot her (didn't) and then continued on assuming we would wait in Tal.... Arrived in Tal (ran into Ayul who had taken a wrong trail and bee lost for 1.5 hrs! And was heading out again) and ordered lunch at the Paradise and waited. Suddenly my phone rings-Pandie! She had borrowed someone's phone and was calling to look for us. Apparently she had also wandered off the trail and been lost for an hour. She finally arrived 2 hrs after us and we decided to stay in this lovely little village along the river with 2 incredible waterfalls out our window. The plan is to head out early tomorrow morning and make it to Koto at 2640 meters....assuming nobody gets lost.
6 Nov
Day 4 Tal to Chame (2650 meters, 9 hrs)
Tea in Dharapani
Lunch in Timang
Guesthouse: Manaslu View - hot shower,wash clothes and a proper crapper -no squatting tonight!
Dinner: Yak Curry (not certain if it is really yak, since I have not seen any yet, also they seem to cook it by drying it over the open cook stove)
Left Tal at 6:30 and made good easy progress along the river slowly gaining altitude. Leaving Tal we passed through fields of marijuana along the river. The vegetation slowly changed from the tropical to subalpine through oak deciduous forest with acorns on the trail and apple orchards (bought a few from a man walking down the trail also trying to sell his apple brandy for 500NPR) to pine and hemlock and cooling temperatures. Some very steep climbs up many stone stairs, but "slowly slowly" gets it done. Eventually turned the corner and the Annapurnas appear towering over us. We picked up a new partner early this morning, Zhong a chinese secretary from Beijing trekking on her own. Pandie is practicing her chinese on her. Our entourage now includes Pandie, me, Irish Mike, the Chinese secretary, Ayul (if we ever run into him again) and occasionally a young swiss/kiwi (marcel and?) couple from Davos.
An amazing lunch on the roof of a restaurant with the Masalu range in the background. At lunch we met 2 separate Swiss groups mtn biking the entire circuit!
A slight mishap when Pandie slipped on a downhill outside the village of Thyanchowk and it literally knocked the shit out of her (actually brought on a diarrhea bout) and she now has a swollen ankle.
I also almost got knocked off a cliff by a wild Himalayan cowboy galloping on a horse. The horse didn't want to go where he wanted and backed up into me.....
BTW: my pack is definitely heavier than it needs to be ( and about 3x Pandie's), but you can't complain when the little porters in flip flops carry 50+kilos with a tump line (head strap) pass by easily)!
Reached Chame, the administrative center of the Manang District, about 4 and chose the Manaslu View hotel. Lovely views of Manasalu and the Annapurnas out our window. They have Internet here so will send some emails in a bit and find put election results tomorrow morning. Also, Pemba, the owner agreed to sell me his camera! And there is a bank here where I can get cash to pay. So, will wait until the bank opens and get some money before. leaving for Pesang.
Pandie will stay here tomorrow, explore the area and then take a jeep all the way back to Besishahar on Thursday and a bus to Katmandu. I know she wanted to get to Upper Pesang but with her ankle and making sure she gets back to catch her plane in time she really has no choice. It's been a good easy trek with her, but starting tomorrow I will probably speed things up a bit as I head to Pasang and then to Manang on Thursday.
Disappointing, but not unexpected, to not see any wildlife so far. Basically, cows, water buffalo, horse and donkeys, goats and chickens. Not even a yak or dzo yet. Birds pretty much limited to crows and various dove and pigeons. The occasional small wren or warbler whistles a pretty tune and we did see a dipper in the river. Have seen a few colorful katydids, prey manti and some crazy huge bees with giant orange heads.
Keeping my eye out for a yeti or snow leopard-always!
The human crowds are really not bad and way less than I had understood. The books describe Oct/Nov as the high season for trekking this route but the real high season must be Oct. most of the crowds have been larger parties going the other way on their return from the 17 day Manasalu trek, but we passed that intersection yesterday and they have disappeared.
Also, the new road is really not as bad for trekking as we had read and heard. It is a bit dusty when jeeps pass, but the traffic is light and the hiking easy. The scenery is still great. Anyway, the road ends from here on until Jomson.
In the Snow Leopard, PM describes the biologist, George Schaller's (UAF /IAB alumnus) first attempts at writing haiku along this route. Here is my first attempt:
An undulating trail
Follows green river
Arrive at Annapurna
7 Nov
Day 5: Chame to Upper Pisang (3300 meters, 5:30 hr, 15 km)
Elevation Gain: 700 meters
Lunch: Bhratang
Guesthouse: Annapurna
Dinner: Mixed fried spaghetti
Peaks out the window: Lamjung Himal, Annapurna II and IV, Manasalu
Cold morning (laundry frozen), Late start, bye bye Pandie.
Up early and watching election returns on CNN (until the power went out) drinking coffee and eating our porridge. Called S and had a nice talk until the SIM card ran out. Turns out it is about 4x more to call from here than from India. Will have to make them shorter (maybe more often though). Hopefully S will text the election results this evening when she gets up. It was close when the power cut!
Bought the camera from Pemba and then had to wait until the bank (the only one for over a week) opened at 10 to get replacement cash. In the meantime recharged the phone and bought a liter of agua from the clean water refill station. Realized the bank was open when a tall guard carry a shotgun walked out. Went in and he followed us...
Turns out the bank doesn't do cash advances (no ATMs until the end), but the place I recharged the phone has Western Union cash advances with a 10% fee. At least I have enough for the trip AND a camera!
We (Irish Mike) left Pandie in the middle of Chame a little after 10 trying to decide whether to take the jeep at 11 today or tomorrow morning.......? Hope whatever she makes it back safely and in time.
Not super long, but the hardest day yet with lots of steep climbing continuing up the Marsyangdi closer to its source at Manang. 5 suspension bridge crossings high above the river, some the new metal ones and 2 older wooden ones (not sure how someone with fear of heights would do on this trek). Good hour break for lunch (fried potato/vege/egg) under Annapurna II. Lunch always takes at least an hour, but at least it is made fresh and I guess the break is good. Then another long hard climb up to10,000' to U Pesang arriving at around 4. Today the cars ended on the road. There is no bridge past Chame even though the road is finished to the next village. Even after that, except for a few places the road seems to be mostly ready to Lower Pesang and beyond. We actually spent a lit more time off the road now and the final 2k climb to Upper Pesang is totally on trails and will continue that way tomorrow.
We are now almost at treeline and the forest is definitely alpine conifers-mostly smaller pines, larch and cedar and looks much like the high alpine Rockies, except the peaks are twice as high and steeper. Even the horses and cattle and local Nepalis could fit right in- the people could easily be mistaken for native Americans. A strange sight was the appearance along the trail (for the first time) of people selling local trinkets, and sometimes not even very close to a village. There is also a very cold stiff breeze and I know it will be cold tonight (even saw some ice along the trail in the shady areas this afternoon). The wood fire in the dining area is much appreciated right now!
Wandered into the village and up steep winding paths past a number of primitive, but nice, guesthouses to the monastery at the top. Amazing view of Annapurna II, and free tea from the monks. Never saw a Buddha statue with flashing Xmas lights around his head before! When we arrived at the monastery there was Ayul. We walked back down and found a reasonable room. I discovered my only warm hat had fallen out of my pocket someplace. Walked back and ran into a Swiss couple who had picked it up!
8 Nov- Obama wins, the world is safe!
Day 6
Upper Pisang to Manang (upper trail, 7 hrs, 3540 meters)
Tea: Ghyaru (3730 m)
Lunch: Ngawal, vege/fried noodle atPeaceful Guesthouse
Guesthouse: Hotel Yeti- room with attached toilet.
Dinner: Yak fajitas
Up at 6:30, breakfast (apple porridge and weak coffee) at 7 and trekking by 7:30.
Long hard climb up to the village and small Gompa in Ghyaru (Mike did well but definitely slower and feeling the height), a cup of tea and visit with fellow Trekkers for a bit and off along the ridge line to Ngawal. Much easier! And a bunch of eagles and lammergeier ( bearded vulture) soaring below us.
Early lunch at the Peaceful Guesthouse in Ngawal and Ayul caught up. The proprietor informed me of election results and I hugged him (guess I can come home before 4 years!). Herds of yak and great views of Annapurna II, IV, III and a number of other peaks towering over.
Ancient Tibetan Village
Fifty wooly yak
Annapurna II,IV, III
or
Ancient Tibetan Village
Fifty wooly yak
Obama is president
Then another relatively easy walk back down to the river and about 3 hrs to the BIG village of Manang. Very cold here and a biting wind. Checked into the large Hotel Yeti and got a double room with attached bath and very nice beds! Got here at 2:45, hot water lasts til 3, so a quick shower, washed some clothes, and then checked email, election results, a cup of real coffee and an apple Danish. Checked out the town with Ayul, and made plans to watch Into Thin Air at the theater tonight at 7.
Today's trek was the first totally away from roads and through more traditional Tibetan type villages and quite delightful.
Tomorrow will be a rest day here for Mike and Ayul to acclimate- maybe a local trek, and then Saturday will take. 2-3 day side trek to Tilicho Lake at 4000 meters, before heading over the Thorung La.
The yak fajita was a treat and then everyone came out of Thin Air depressed and scared of the mountains. A good deal though, 200 NPR for a seat next to the wood stove , a bag of popcorn and cup of tea. Did meet a young UK doctor, Tom, volunteering for the season (12 weeks) with the Himalayan Medical team that runs trekker and local clinics here and one near Everest.
9 Nov
Day 7: Rest day in Manang
Up by 7 and wandered down to a bakery that served real coffee, then came back and had breakfast (eggs, real fresh baked bread/toast and hash browns!) at the hotel (the rooms are always very cheap, but if you don't eat breakfast and dinner at the hotel/ guesthouse they raise the price 2-4x-food is how they make money here). At breakfast I met a young US couple (there are very few Americans here- mostly German, French, Swiss) traveling and trying to work in India/Nepal for a couple of years. Anyway, it turned out they have 2 Garmin GPS with memory chips with all of Asia and Russia including ALL of the trails here on them. I am carrying a GPS. With no maps. They sold me one of the chips and now we will be able to use the GPS for more than an altimeter! This will be useful in the next few days as there are some shortcuts that are on the GPS maps that will mean we don't have to backtrack to Manang after Tilicho Lake.
Nice, but short talk with S.
Then went to find Ayul to head to a hike 500 meters above town to the Prakep Gompa. I think he is feeling the altitude and stayed behind. mile and I made the pilgrimage up with about 40 other Trekkers. Beautiful views of the village, lake and mountains. Very nice walking without my pack! The draw of the Gompa is the 94 yr old Tashi Lama who lives there with his daughter and blesses the Trekkers for a safe crossing of the pass and a blessing string for 100 NPR (you also get tea, or for 500 you getrayer beads). On the way back down, I figured out he probably makes about $7000 during the 12 weeks trekking season (average Nepali makes about $2000/ yr)- not bad work!
On the way up to the Gompa we were behind a group,of Trekkers with 2 young Nepali girls. Turns out the Trekkers were Dutch, but the 2 girls were there porters from the 6 Sisters Trekking Company, which hires only women guides and porters. They were 20 yrs old cute small and when trekking carried 40 kg! They were also very fun and giggly and a bit mischievous- running down the trail and then stopping and. Pretending to block. I town I was looking at some trinkets and one jokingly tried to get me to buy her one.
Lunch at Mavis' Kitchen (Mavis is half Chinese, but went to catholic school and was given the name- keeps it because it is easier for the Trekkers) with Mike and Ayul. After lunch Mike and I had pastries (incredible apple pie) and another cup of jo before going to Dr Tom's talk on high altitude sickness. Turns out one thing that adds to the chances of getting HAS is being under 50. When I asked why, he enjoyed (and so did the audience) telling me that over 50 our brains shrink enough that you don't feel the pressure as much and thus less chance of headaches! After the talk Mike spoke to the doctor and decided to start taking preventive dose(half) of diamox.
At 5 we plan to watch 7 years in Tibet and then dinner at 7:30. Saw the end of the movie last night before Thin Air and realized now after living it in Ladakh it would be fun to watch again.
10 Nov
Day 8: Manang to Tilicho Lake Basecamp (side trip) 4150 meters (600 meter climb), 5:20, 14.5 km
Breakfast: muesli, toast and coffee
Tea: Shree Karka
Lunch: at Tilichco Basecamp: fried noodles w/vege,egg, cheese
Guesthouse:Hotel New Tilichco Basecamp (brand new, opened Oct 8), 100 NPR
Trek:WOW- enough said
Animals: yak, small herd of blue sheep and a few eagles
Depart Manang: 7:30, arrive Basecamp at 12:50, Mike arrived about 30 min behind me.
Up at 6:30, breakfast at 7 (as usual) and hit the trail by 7:30 in lots of clothes, but stripped down 30 min later as the sun came up and we were working. Ayul wasn't quite ready and said he would meet us at Basecamp-'we will see...
Wasn't positive how things would go as Mike had a bout of the trots last night, but Imodium seemed to work wonders and he trudged along coming in to the hotel about 30 min after I arrived while I was eating lunch. Unfortunately he had a mishap and one of the straps on his pack is ripped. We will have to figure how to mend it. (borrowed some zip ties and that seems to be a solution-future trekking:bring zip ties in addition to duct tape) I also had a minor equipment failure- my belt broke, but so far a little duct tape is working.
Beautiful trek all on trails with very few other Trekkers until we got near the end and passed a number of people returning to Shree Karka or another 4 hrs further to Yak Karka on the way up to Thorung La Pass after doing Tilicho Lake from Basecamp early this morning (probably our plan for tomorrow). Incredible views and very steep climbs, including about 5 km along the contours in the middle of huge, steep scree slopes with numerous slide areas. A bit treacherous, but not terrible. The GPS was definitely iseful in finding trails today.
Got a room in a brand new hotel with a very open sunny dining area for 100 NPR. There is a giant solar cooker outside the window cooking up a pot of boiling water-nice. After scarfing down a hearty noodle lunch, I cleaned up with some baby wipes (no shower or electricity here), changed and washed out my socks and underwear in the freezing stream. May take a little walk up the trail towards Tilicho Lake (5000 meters) in a bit. Others say the hike up to the worlds highest lake early in the morning is well worth it and a couple of Germans described seeing what sounds like a herd of Tibetan antelope yesterday. There is a 74 year old German man here doing the trek. He got lost this morning on the way up to the lake and did not make it. I also met another single Chinese woman who got lost on her way up to Basecamp a couple of days ago and had to spend a night out! Also ran into our Chinese friend Zhou who had been to the lake today and was headed to Shree Karka tomorrow (will probably see her there)
As I sit here in the lodge the immense and monstrous Annapurna Himal ridge towers above us at 7000 meters. It is a daunting high, long ridge which I believe is what Herzog called the Great Barrier and was one of the big obstacles they had to surmount and figure how to get around in order to even figure out where Annapurna I was and if it was possible to climb. I also finally was able to figure out that what he called the Giant Ice Lake is Tilicho. Reading the book in Ladakh was a bit confusing, but now rereading it with the map and the mountains right in front of me it all starts to make sense!
11 Nov (Veterans Day in the US, and Independence Day in Poland)
Day 8
Tilicho Base Camp- Tilicho Lake (5000 meters- worlds highest lake, 4 hrs total, 2 up, 1 down, 1 hr,for pictures and tea)-back to Base Camp-Shree Karka
Guesthouse: Hotel Tilicho Peak
Depart: 6:30 back to BC by 10:30, second breakfast (apple pancake and fried eggs), pack up and off to Shree Karka at 11.
There is no electricity up here so, after dinner headed to the room and spent until 7:30 reading with headlamp in sleeping bag and then an early sleep- pretty fitful and awake around 3 and read some more. Up in the cold and dark by 5:30 (did a little surgery on the dead dry skin on my left little toe- feels much better now), breakfast at 6 and started up the trail by 6:30 in the cold. Lots of layers. More incredible scenery and steep climbs, but actually relatively easy going, especially with only a light daypack. Saw a small band of blue sheep (all ewes), more eagles and yaks. Caught up to the few who had started before me, including 2 young German mountain bikers. Made it to the lake by 8:30, before the wind started, and had amazing views of the lake, surrounding glaciers and peaks. I was met at the small tea house with a high five by Ramesh (Chandra= moon, nickname Cycle Jackson), the guide for the 2 mtn bikers, Florian (air traffic controller) and Dominique(physiotherapist, but now a med student). He had walked up a bit before me and we struck up a nice conversation. He told me some good information about places to go and stay from here on out. Also turns out he has finished in the top 10 of the Everest Marathon 5 times and races mtn bikes (has completed the 11 stage Yak Attack mtn bike race from Katmandu over the Thorung La Pass) and mtn unicycles ( the only Nepali). When the bikers arrived at the top the wind had come up and one of them had frozen fingers and only bike gloves-leant him my ski gloves (I was wearing liners and was OK). Had some tea, took pictures and headed down before Mike arrived. One hour down and went most of the way with Ramesh.
At the Basecamp, changed, had lunch and when Mike arrived we set out for Shree Karka, back along the steep scree. Arrived at the guesthouse around 1:30 and got the last room! Recharged camera and iPod (although it doesn't really charge quickly in the cold). Sat around in the nice sunroom and finished a book. Meeting more Trekkers. There is a big Polish group, with one young talkative high school kid. Also met a young PhD student from Boulder dong her project on the economic effects of the new road on the area. Turns out she might have been Emily's TA....?
Very cold here and seems as if clouds are moving in tonight for the first time. Hope they blow out tonight and we don't get any snow.
Training and walking at altitude: been thinking a lot about the effects of the acclimatization I did living at 3500 meters for 2 months and it's affects on my ability to trek here and also about what effects slow trekking 7 hrs a day with 15-20 kilos on my back at these altitudes will have on racing this winter.
I am definitely not racing, but am also clearly walking far faster than almost all of the other Trekkers, especially when climbing. It is more pronounced the steeper the trail and also seems to be a bigger difference as we get higher. I am sure that living at altitude with multiple excursions to 5 and 6000 meters has helped and been responsible for the lack of any altitude symptoms. I will bet my hematocrit is close to that of dope Lance by now. When we get to the steep stuff and slow down, I can't imagine walking any slower without stopping, but obviously most are. I think it is partly due to technique. I have been mainly doing a version of ski walking and also use my walking poles a lot when climbing. I have noticed that most people have no idea how to use them efficiently ( I gave Mike a few lessons) and I think the combination of ski walking with pole use gives me much more distance up for each step....
As far as training for skiing, I definitely am getting a huge base, and because of using the poles I think I am keeping my upper body strong. Obviously, I am also building up RBCs. I think I will probably have great endurance, but It will be interesting to see whether I can develop speed and how long it will take with intervals once I return to snow at home and lower elevation.
12 Nov
Day 9
Shree Karka to Thoren Pedi (Pedi= foot of the hill- just below the Thorang La, 4540 meters, 7:20-1:20, 16.5 km)
Lunch: Yak Karka
Guesthouse: Thorung Basecamp Lodge
Woke up to find my water and contact solution frozen, but at least the clouds were gone and no wind yet.
Trek: left Shree Karka at 7:20 in multilayers which were removed after 30 min of climbing. Ramesh, Florian and Dominique caught up around the same time on their bikes and Ramesh offered to get us a room at TP for tonight. He seems to have latched onto and sort of adopted me and is sort of acting like my guide....?
Rather quickly left Mile behind on the climb up past Upper Karsang (a deserted Yak camp) and actually never saw him after that (we agreed to meet at TP and I would get a room). After a climb and over a ridge the valley opened up towards the main valley and regular trail from Manang to the pass. Over the top was a nasty steep 30 min descent which did a number on the knees. Then another hour climb up to the main trail and into Yak Karka where I had lunch with the bikers. Again Ramesh got my order and they gave me some of their thermos of tea. Ate and waited about 45 min but no Mike, so headed up the trail to Thoren Phedi. After about an hour and a half Ramesh caught me- amazing watching him ride, but even more amazing is watching him climb with his bike balanced on his head-no hands! Another hour slog up to TP. About 1PM the afternoon cold valley wind came up and I changed back into layers for the last 20 min. Arrived, and Ramesh had a big sunny room for us (not sure why but he gave us the bigger nicer one than his clients- and told me not to tell them....? No shower but a nice large cozy dining hall with real coffee and great chocolate pastries. I did wash myself of with banyan wipes and put on my clean clothes, tended to my little toe and ordered dinner for tonight (you need to order when you arrive with a desired time or your dinner gets backed up behind everyone else). Got some of my gear organized and water ready and purified so I can just hop out of bed throw on some clothes and shoes and hit the trail at 4. You need to leave so early to miss the winds at the top. Now I am lying around in our sunny room (except the afternoon clouds are coming in) waiting for Mike to show- so far it has been 2 hrs and I sure hope he makes it and nothing happened. If he does not get here tonight, I will plan to leave anyway by myself. (mike rolled in around 4-everything OK)
Tons of people, mostly groups with guides, here tonight preparing for the big slog over the pass tomorrow. It was a fun evening in the main lodge watching group politics. First we were sitting at a table with a mixed group (not previous friends) of Brits, a scot and an older gentleman from Bolzano with lots of mountain experience. They had a big argue net about when to leave in the morning with the Sud Tyrolian being the dissenter. It was getting pretty heated as I excused us. Guess they sorted it out. The dining area is huge and divided into 3 areas with one being nearer the kitchen and warmer. We were sitting at one of these tables with Florian a Chinese fellow and a fun Polish mother and daughter when a Frenchman that we had met a couple of nights ago in Manang came by and pulled a piece of paper from under a glass that said reserved for 9 (these tables can easily hold14-16) and told us to leave. We ended up in the cold room doing a lot of trashing of the stereotypical rude French and it made the evening very entertaining.
Everything is paid up and we are mostly packed so getting out in the morning will be fast.
13 Nov
Day 10
Thoren Pedi (4540) to Thorung La (5416) to Muktinath (3800) (13.3 km)
Departure:4AM (-10C)
Arrive Muktinath: 1:30
Guesthouse: Royal Mustang
Muktinath is the holiest pilgrimage in the Himalayas for both Hindus and Buddhists but also has the Bob Marley guesthouse and offers an amazing view of the immense Dhaulagiri and the smaller Nilgiri.
Very cold night and a crazy early wake up at 3:40 to get dressed in multilayers and double gloves, grab coffee and head up the trail for the 1000 m climb to Thorung La in the dark. The dining area was filled with Trekkers and their guides and porters getting their breakfasts. It was hard to get anything if you didn't have a guide, but I managed and we actually started climbing with headlights under a clear star filled sky on time. Joined the long line of headlights, which eventually stretched with hundreds of Trekkers over about 5 km! A crazy sight. Quickly started overtaking long lines of 15-30 Trekkers with their noses up each other' s arse and stopping about every 10 meters. Passing on the narrow trail in the dark was a bit tricky, but definitely worth the effort. Once past each group it was just the trail, music (first use of the iPod and it was wonderful), and Orion's belt directly overhead, until you reached the next group. Took off a couple of upper layers after 30 min and then had overtaken everyone leaving Thoren Pedi by the time we reached High Camp an hour later. A large number of groups had overnighted at high camp and were starting from there as, or just before I arrived and another set of long lines of headlights to pass. Eventually, within about 30 min of the summit I had nobody to pass and was on my own as the sun started rising behind turning the peaks lavender and pink. Luckily, by now I could turn off my headlight as the battery was starting to run out from the cold. The cold had also frozen the tube of my Camelback and my other water bottle (was able to break through the ice on top and open with my walking stick tip) and seems to have nipped the tip of one finger a bit). I was the first trekker to arrive, with a few porters at the summit and had tea and bought warm water (also was offered to buy hashish!), hung around for about 30 min and then started the long 1600 meter descent to Muktinath with a stop at a tea stall about 1 hr from Muktinath where I had fresh apple juice and Swiss Rosti with a bunch of Israelis. Then walked the rest of the way to town and the hotel. Showered, had clothes washed and checked and sent emails. Nice to be clean and hear news after 4 days away from civilization.
The bikers arrived awhile a couple of hours later (Mike about 2.5) and I had a cafe latte and apple pie with them while they ate yak burgers (they continued on down to Kagbeni after) and told me their unfortunate story of helping a porter with pulmonary edema and bringing him down from the top on their bikes. Dominique, the med student, was still pretty upset and pissed off because of the all of the other Trekkers who refused to help!
It also, obviously ruined their big downhill ride, but they should score lots of karma points! Mike arrived, I showed him the room, and we bid farewell to the bikers.
I walked up to the Hindu/Buddhist temple above town and now am sitting outside the room in the sun. Will head to the restaurant for a beer and yak burger soon.
Actually ended up having a beer at the Bob Marley Hotel with a couple of young Germans who had helped Mike fix his pack and then came back and had another beer and a yak burger at our guesthouse and an interesting conversation with Malcolm from Wales (my age) and Walter, an older,retired,very interesting Sud Tyrolian from Bolzano, living in Wales.
Tomorrow will be a latish start and we will head off the main trail to go through one of the last remaining villages that still observes the ancient Bonpo religion and then onto Khagnbeni for the night.
Today I decided it is stupid to keep saying Namaste to non-Nepalis ( Everyone does as they pass) and will now greet them with an American greeting and reserve Namaste for locals.
14 Nov
Day 12
Muktinath to Lubre (or Lupra) to Kagbeni (5.5 hrs)
Beautiful, mixed day and an adventure-hardest day for me yet!
Woke up at 6 in a cold room to Dhaulagiri looming out the window next to my bed in the sunrise!
Breakfast in the dining room and goodbyes to Walter and others. Walked To the tourist office to find out about the trail we intended to take but it was closed- the man went on Holiday starting today, but found out where the trail started.
Tried to call Shannon, but the phones that were working last night were not today. Set off at 9 (relatively late) and easily found the trail to Lubre on the west of town near the jeep stand where many groups were finishing their treks and getting rides out to Pokhara. The rest of the Trekkers seemed to be heading down the road, either to the big city of Jomson or to Kagbeni. We seemed to be the only ones taking the side ( and longer trek to Lubre) and were definitely alone, except for 4 other Trekkers we could see ahead. A steep climb of about an hour over alpine tundra/desert (much like Ladakh now) and then the absolutely hardest part of the trek for me so far- 1600 m down to the river and into Lubre. I did have one slip and was worried about overextending my knee, but it seems to be OK-phew!
We arrived in the center of the small village just as all the local school kids were dancing and singing in costume to celebrate the beginning of Dewali (Nepalis biggest holiday)! The main reason for going there was to see the only remaining monastery of the Bonpo, animistic religion on the circuit. There is a pre12th century Gompa - we waited around for the lama (not wearing any special robes and did not make us take shoes off?) to finish lunch. He took us up and unlocked the door and showed us around for 100 NPR. Except for the one statue of Shiva, I couldn't really tell any difference between this Gompa and all the other Buddhist ones I've been too... Anyway, it was pretty cool to go to a village that it seems hardly any other Trekkers go to and to avoid the road which almost everyone else went down. From Lubre to Kagbeni was a bit of an adventure and we were not quite certain where we were going, but trusted the locals and the GPS. We ended up walking down the wide, deep stream bed of a tributary to the Kali Gandaki against a 30-40 MPH dusty headwind- not fun. Eventually intersected the main road/trail to Jomson with Trekkers and jeeps heading down. We turned right and headed NE with a tailwind to Ekle Bhatti (a late lunch of Maggi) and then to Kagbeni. The tailwind was even nasty-strong enough to push you sideways when it pushes for the side. Saw 2 eagles and a lammergeier along the river. Room at New Annapurna Guesthouse-free if we buy dinner and breakfast. Supposedly free wifi! But the Internet is down, and I do seem to have phone service, so will call Shannon when she wakes up Wednesday morning.
Nice dinner of chicken spaghetti with mushroom sauce and half a Tuborg.
After dinner the kids from the local school and all the teachers were here in costumes to celebrate Diwali and we had a fun time dancing and singing together.
Thought about staying here 2 nights and walking into the restricted Mustang as far as you can, but it seems you can only go 1.5 km from here. It would maybe be an interesting trip into the Mustang area someday. It takes a $500 permit/person, guide and a max of 10 days and I believe they only issue a few thousand permits/ yr. It seems to be a pretty traditional area with more wildlife.....
15 Nov
Day 13
Kagbeni to Jomson to Marpha
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