25 Oct
Four days left in Leh before the next leg of the journey. Today my traveling companion, Katarina, left to meet her Parents in Delhi.
Yesterday morning I had to say goodbye to my little buddy, Smanla. Since there is no school for Jim after the exams until next Thursday, he and his father (a bus driver for the school) went back to the village where his mother is. Got a huge hug and thank you,for the cricket bat I gave him and for helping him study for the exams. It's already noticeably quieter around here and no stupid cartoons, and I miss him. Today his older cousin Dalex will be coming after co pelting his exams.
After school took a long hike up the mountains behind the school in nice weather. Tns of chukkars and grouse. Unfortunately I overdressed and got pretty sweaty. Luckily, the water in the shower thawed out and the power came on so I could shower.
Last night we were surprised by a last minute invitation to a going away dinner by the principal at the boy's hostel. A jimpo (delicious) dinner of a variety of dishes (including my 3rd helping of momos in a day), some bought from Andu's restaurant. We were joined by the principal,and three French donors who I had met previously. One is a big donor to the school who is a retired science teacher and now a documentary filmmaker doing films about the effect of global warming on the Himalayas. The other couple are from the ski area of La Grave, where we now have a place to stay.... Besides being a great dinner, the principal was very outgoing and appreciative of all. He gave us all kathas and made little speeches about each one. This was probably a good thing for,Katarina, since previously she had been pretty sure that he did not even know her name.
This morning Dorjay and Andu tried to light the gas heater, but it did not work. He will get it prepared today.
Right now I am sitting in the "greenhouse" and it must be in the 80s in here- almost too hot!
After school and lunch today I played a little cricket with some of the students and teachers. And, now I have been invited to play on a teachers' team on Sunday against teachers from the Tibetan School! I think mainly for comic relief!
Dorjay(from school) just Invited me to a wedding tonight. This is the wedding season and there seems to be one going on in the neighborhood almost every night. You can tell when the drums start beating in the early evening and continue until late into the night. Very interested to see what it is like.
Suddenly things are getting a bit busier for me these last few days- good because I really am ready to go and this will make it quicker for me.
Wedding: first, it wasn't actually the wedding. The wedding was last year and this was the party for it. Apparently it isn't unusual to have the party up to five years after the actual wedding. However, I do think the wedding on Sunday is both together.
The venue was in a crowded neighborhood below the market and near the house of the family. The party was in a large tent made of colorful cloths in a vacant lot between lots,of houses. Everyone in the neighborhood is invited, which is good since as you approach it is easy to find due to the loud Indian pop music blasting from speakers. Under the tent, the entire ground is covered with carpets and lots of small tables (enough for 500 guests), all from the neighbors. People in traditional dress (I wore Dorjay's wool, winter Goncha) and many women pouring butter tea and bottles of Chang (traditional barley beer). Eventually the place fills up and begins to warm from the human heat, music (traditional drums and horns) and Ladakhi dancing. Trays filled with glasses of rum, brandy and whiskey start coming around and a few snacks. Everytime you take a sip of anything there seems to be someone there to top it off. There is a giant pile of gifts in the center of the tent. Mostly useful items like carpets, cooking pots and even many bags of rice and containers of butter! People who don't bring actually gifts bring money and everything seems to be cataloged by a series of people at a table by the entry. By around 10PM after too many refills of whiskey and chang, it seems the meal is served- down the street in another empty lot. Tables full of various foods (all vege) and lots of people lined up. After the meal, Dorjay drove. Me home and then returned to help clean up. Fun night for me!
On his way home, Dorjay saw 8 hostel boys from the school who had snuck out and were dunk in town. Ended up being a late night for him and the Principal and a bad one for the boys. Some with multiple offenses will be sent home to their parents in the villages, others get second/third chances. According to the principal these are new occurrences this year and there are more each month. So much for the grateful, respectful student image.....
26 Oct
Monasteries
People are always asking have you been to ......? Always one of the nearby villages with another beautiful and amazing monastery or Gompa. Usually, the answer is no. I have been to the monasteries and stupas, of course and they are great. Today, as I walked up the valley above Leh I realized, however, that I've seen enough Buddhas, scary deities, butter sculptures, mani walls, chortens, stupas and bald monks in red robes and Oakleys already! I much prefer wandering outside of town on the small roads and trails that wind into the hills talking with children, past farmers plowing the field with their Tzo, old ladies walking the cows and donkeys home and then beyond them into the hills along clean mountain streams to see what birds and other wildlife show up.
27 Oct:Eid
Today is the first day of the Muslim celebration of Eid. During the last week there has been tension and fighting between Muslims and Buddhist in Kargill in the Zanskar region- halfway between here and Srinigar. Apparently over some,issues with some Buddhists who converted to Islam... Dorjay tells me the news says it is now peaceful, but there is tension over today's celebrations. The local celebration is apparently just down the road this morning and I plan to skip out and head down around 10:30 to see. Yangchan and Dorjay keep talking about all the goats and "sheeps" that are being "cut" this morning in Muslim houses for the feast. (arrived at 10:44 and it was already over....)
I don't understand the Buddhist thoughts on vegetarianism... They (note: when I say they I am referring to the ones I am familiar with and there definitely seems to be lots of variability) are not vegetarians, or at least not the ones in Ladakh. They eat chicken, goat and mutton, but not cow, camel or pork. They seem to find the idea of killing "too many" animals bad. They also, apparently, do not eat any fish or other wild animals and seem to find the idea of killing non domestic animals very bad. I know the wild animals like Ibex and blue sheep are endangered and protected here but I am pretty sure that is not the reason for their feelings about killing them.
Grading: teachers are busily completing the grading of exams and preparation of report card for the k-8 students. It is a laborious, time consuming process all done by hand on large sheets for recording. The teachers have 5 days without students to complete this tedious process, and will need it all! It would be so easy for a spreadsheet expert to convert the papers into an exel spreadsheet and with the computers available in the lab and staff room, cut out days of work and allow more days of actual teaching. (just found out that they actually do have a program for doing this but it has bugs and it is expensive for them to use, but hopefully will be ready for next year......?)
Apparently accuracy is also an issue and simple mistakes in recording grades could mean not getting a raise! Hard to imagine my colleagues putting up with this.
Electricity: the school runs on it's own solar array and something has not been working for most of this week, so no power in most of the areas of the school that are supposed to have power. Also, hard to imagine a large school in the US continuing on without power!
Had a very good and productive meeting with the Principal late this afternoon and finished up the volunteer packet. New insights into the school and some of the issues from his perspective. I think we came up with some more productive ways to use volunteers and some potential workshops that would help move the school away from the traditional Indian style. Now just need to find qualified and willing people to come do them.
Also had a short but good discussion with Stanzin Nurbu about the school. He is the same teacher who originally spoke to me about corporal punishment at the school and seems to be one of the most outspoken and progressive teachers here.
28 Oct
Last free day here. Tomorrow will be busy finishing up things at the school, saying goodbyes and packing.
The cricket match was called off because the teachers are so busy getting grades ready and since I went to the wedding party the other night decided not to go again.
Instead, I took off early to trek back up the road where I had been earlier this week, but cut off up the canyon I saw to the left. Cold morning (below freezing), but warmed up quickly once the sun came up. After leaving the road did not see any other people and headed up over a pass, down a slot steep slot canyon and out into the next canyon. Sat in the sun just above the army post at the village of Phyong for awhile. Was a bit worried about being mistaken for a Pakistani spy as I scanned the post with my binoculars and talked on the mobile, but not a problem. As I sat there a kestrel sized-falcon flew 2' over my head chasing a smaller LGB. Scared the shit out of me, but cool.
On the way back, I walked right past the large rock I had stuck in the middle of the trail to mark where the trail headed out of the slot canyon and had to backtrack about 10 min. Nice lunch (packed by Yangchan) of chapati, egg and garden apples in the sun on the ridge. Two nice Blue Sheep ( ram and ewe) walked just below as I was eating and watched them for a long time before heading down and home. Nice last "trek".
When I returned home YC. And Dorjay's oldest daughter, Llamo and her friend (male) CJ had arrived from Delhi for the weekend.
29 Oct
Last day at school. Took pictures of me with my classes and finished up some last minute tasks and good-byes to teachers. Eshey stopped by the house with a present (Tsampa pot) and also T and Llamo.
So, my comment to the IT guy, Gyaelson, about an exel spreadsheet got things going and he spent the weekend making it. Now the teachers are busy entering scores. Impressive to see such a quick change that has huge impact in terms of teacher workload.
30 Oct
Typical cold, clear Ladakh fall morning with mountains sparkling in sun and snow. Very different than the weather in New England right now. Have been watching BBC and trying to imagine the storm and what is happening at the Cape. Hope the roof stayed on and wondering what flotsam will wash into the yard.
Goodbyes to Yangchan, Dorjey, and Dalex- will miss them. They keep asking when I will come back with my family. I keep saying not next year, maybe two....I wonder....hope so.
Four rounds of security to get to the waiting room, but they did take both of my bags and no excess fees. And after 4 more security checks and pushing and shoving with all the Indians to get through the gate I am on plane to Delhi and glad it is only an hour flight since there is less than 12" between my seat and the one in front.
Flying out of Leh and over the mountains was an amazing view today. We first headed west towards Chilling and over the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus, where Shannon, Will, Ian and I rated last year then banked east and eventually south over amazing peaks and glaciers and what I assume was Tso Moriri, the high saline lake south of Pangong Lake. So many crazy high, steep and I assume unnamed peaks. Eventually we started coming out of the high mountains, the snow disappeared and the shining reflections off of many scattered metal roofs became more and more concentrated as we flew further south towards the planes of India. To the east 4-5 gigantic white peaks towered over the other mountains in China. And then we hit the planes and the clear blue skies, and the ground slowly disappeared as we approached the smoke and smog of the plains and Delhi.
I am now holed up in a small hotel somewhere near the International terminal where I will fly out of the noise, smell and traffic of Delhi tomorrow morning. Did get a beer and biryiani chicken but must wait until 8 tonight for hot water in the shower. The advertised wifi is only off and on and don't know if it will work for skypeing later. Also, the satellite TV has no international news, so I can't find out about Sandy. In fact only English channel is Comedy Central. At least it is warm.
Four days left in Leh before the next leg of the journey. Today my traveling companion, Katarina, left to meet her Parents in Delhi.
Yesterday morning I had to say goodbye to my little buddy, Smanla. Since there is no school for Jim after the exams until next Thursday, he and his father (a bus driver for the school) went back to the village where his mother is. Got a huge hug and thank you,for the cricket bat I gave him and for helping him study for the exams. It's already noticeably quieter around here and no stupid cartoons, and I miss him. Today his older cousin Dalex will be coming after co pelting his exams.
After school took a long hike up the mountains behind the school in nice weather. Tns of chukkars and grouse. Unfortunately I overdressed and got pretty sweaty. Luckily, the water in the shower thawed out and the power came on so I could shower.
Last night we were surprised by a last minute invitation to a going away dinner by the principal at the boy's hostel. A jimpo (delicious) dinner of a variety of dishes (including my 3rd helping of momos in a day), some bought from Andu's restaurant. We were joined by the principal,and three French donors who I had met previously. One is a big donor to the school who is a retired science teacher and now a documentary filmmaker doing films about the effect of global warming on the Himalayas. The other couple are from the ski area of La Grave, where we now have a place to stay.... Besides being a great dinner, the principal was very outgoing and appreciative of all. He gave us all kathas and made little speeches about each one. This was probably a good thing for,Katarina, since previously she had been pretty sure that he did not even know her name.
This morning Dorjay and Andu tried to light the gas heater, but it did not work. He will get it prepared today.
Right now I am sitting in the "greenhouse" and it must be in the 80s in here- almost too hot!
After school and lunch today I played a little cricket with some of the students and teachers. And, now I have been invited to play on a teachers' team on Sunday against teachers from the Tibetan School! I think mainly for comic relief!
Dorjay(from school) just Invited me to a wedding tonight. This is the wedding season and there seems to be one going on in the neighborhood almost every night. You can tell when the drums start beating in the early evening and continue until late into the night. Very interested to see what it is like.
Suddenly things are getting a bit busier for me these last few days- good because I really am ready to go and this will make it quicker for me.
Wedding: first, it wasn't actually the wedding. The wedding was last year and this was the party for it. Apparently it isn't unusual to have the party up to five years after the actual wedding. However, I do think the wedding on Sunday is both together.
The venue was in a crowded neighborhood below the market and near the house of the family. The party was in a large tent made of colorful cloths in a vacant lot between lots,of houses. Everyone in the neighborhood is invited, which is good since as you approach it is easy to find due to the loud Indian pop music blasting from speakers. Under the tent, the entire ground is covered with carpets and lots of small tables (enough for 500 guests), all from the neighbors. People in traditional dress (I wore Dorjay's wool, winter Goncha) and many women pouring butter tea and bottles of Chang (traditional barley beer). Eventually the place fills up and begins to warm from the human heat, music (traditional drums and horns) and Ladakhi dancing. Trays filled with glasses of rum, brandy and whiskey start coming around and a few snacks. Everytime you take a sip of anything there seems to be someone there to top it off. There is a giant pile of gifts in the center of the tent. Mostly useful items like carpets, cooking pots and even many bags of rice and containers of butter! People who don't bring actually gifts bring money and everything seems to be cataloged by a series of people at a table by the entry. By around 10PM after too many refills of whiskey and chang, it seems the meal is served- down the street in another empty lot. Tables full of various foods (all vege) and lots of people lined up. After the meal, Dorjay drove. Me home and then returned to help clean up. Fun night for me!
On his way home, Dorjay saw 8 hostel boys from the school who had snuck out and were dunk in town. Ended up being a late night for him and the Principal and a bad one for the boys. Some with multiple offenses will be sent home to their parents in the villages, others get second/third chances. According to the principal these are new occurrences this year and there are more each month. So much for the grateful, respectful student image.....
26 Oct
Monasteries
People are always asking have you been to ......? Always one of the nearby villages with another beautiful and amazing monastery or Gompa. Usually, the answer is no. I have been to the monasteries and stupas, of course and they are great. Today, as I walked up the valley above Leh I realized, however, that I've seen enough Buddhas, scary deities, butter sculptures, mani walls, chortens, stupas and bald monks in red robes and Oakleys already! I much prefer wandering outside of town on the small roads and trails that wind into the hills talking with children, past farmers plowing the field with their Tzo, old ladies walking the cows and donkeys home and then beyond them into the hills along clean mountain streams to see what birds and other wildlife show up.
27 Oct:Eid
Today is the first day of the Muslim celebration of Eid. During the last week there has been tension and fighting between Muslims and Buddhist in Kargill in the Zanskar region- halfway between here and Srinigar. Apparently over some,issues with some Buddhists who converted to Islam... Dorjay tells me the news says it is now peaceful, but there is tension over today's celebrations. The local celebration is apparently just down the road this morning and I plan to skip out and head down around 10:30 to see. Yangchan and Dorjay keep talking about all the goats and "sheeps" that are being "cut" this morning in Muslim houses for the feast. (arrived at 10:44 and it was already over....)
I don't understand the Buddhist thoughts on vegetarianism... They (note: when I say they I am referring to the ones I am familiar with and there definitely seems to be lots of variability) are not vegetarians, or at least not the ones in Ladakh. They eat chicken, goat and mutton, but not cow, camel or pork. They seem to find the idea of killing "too many" animals bad. They also, apparently, do not eat any fish or other wild animals and seem to find the idea of killing non domestic animals very bad. I know the wild animals like Ibex and blue sheep are endangered and protected here but I am pretty sure that is not the reason for their feelings about killing them.
Grading: teachers are busily completing the grading of exams and preparation of report card for the k-8 students. It is a laborious, time consuming process all done by hand on large sheets for recording. The teachers have 5 days without students to complete this tedious process, and will need it all! It would be so easy for a spreadsheet expert to convert the papers into an exel spreadsheet and with the computers available in the lab and staff room, cut out days of work and allow more days of actual teaching. (just found out that they actually do have a program for doing this but it has bugs and it is expensive for them to use, but hopefully will be ready for next year......?)
Apparently accuracy is also an issue and simple mistakes in recording grades could mean not getting a raise! Hard to imagine my colleagues putting up with this.
Electricity: the school runs on it's own solar array and something has not been working for most of this week, so no power in most of the areas of the school that are supposed to have power. Also, hard to imagine a large school in the US continuing on without power!
Had a very good and productive meeting with the Principal late this afternoon and finished up the volunteer packet. New insights into the school and some of the issues from his perspective. I think we came up with some more productive ways to use volunteers and some potential workshops that would help move the school away from the traditional Indian style. Now just need to find qualified and willing people to come do them.
Also had a short but good discussion with Stanzin Nurbu about the school. He is the same teacher who originally spoke to me about corporal punishment at the school and seems to be one of the most outspoken and progressive teachers here.
28 Oct
Last free day here. Tomorrow will be busy finishing up things at the school, saying goodbyes and packing.
The cricket match was called off because the teachers are so busy getting grades ready and since I went to the wedding party the other night decided not to go again.
Instead, I took off early to trek back up the road where I had been earlier this week, but cut off up the canyon I saw to the left. Cold morning (below freezing), but warmed up quickly once the sun came up. After leaving the road did not see any other people and headed up over a pass, down a slot steep slot canyon and out into the next canyon. Sat in the sun just above the army post at the village of Phyong for awhile. Was a bit worried about being mistaken for a Pakistani spy as I scanned the post with my binoculars and talked on the mobile, but not a problem. As I sat there a kestrel sized-falcon flew 2' over my head chasing a smaller LGB. Scared the shit out of me, but cool.
On the way back, I walked right past the large rock I had stuck in the middle of the trail to mark where the trail headed out of the slot canyon and had to backtrack about 10 min. Nice lunch (packed by Yangchan) of chapati, egg and garden apples in the sun on the ridge. Two nice Blue Sheep ( ram and ewe) walked just below as I was eating and watched them for a long time before heading down and home. Nice last "trek".
When I returned home YC. And Dorjay's oldest daughter, Llamo and her friend (male) CJ had arrived from Delhi for the weekend.
29 Oct
Last day at school. Took pictures of me with my classes and finished up some last minute tasks and good-byes to teachers. Eshey stopped by the house with a present (Tsampa pot) and also T and Llamo.
So, my comment to the IT guy, Gyaelson, about an exel spreadsheet got things going and he spent the weekend making it. Now the teachers are busy entering scores. Impressive to see such a quick change that has huge impact in terms of teacher workload.
30 Oct
Typical cold, clear Ladakh fall morning with mountains sparkling in sun and snow. Very different than the weather in New England right now. Have been watching BBC and trying to imagine the storm and what is happening at the Cape. Hope the roof stayed on and wondering what flotsam will wash into the yard.
Goodbyes to Yangchan, Dorjey, and Dalex- will miss them. They keep asking when I will come back with my family. I keep saying not next year, maybe two....I wonder....hope so.
Four rounds of security to get to the waiting room, but they did take both of my bags and no excess fees. And after 4 more security checks and pushing and shoving with all the Indians to get through the gate I am on plane to Delhi and glad it is only an hour flight since there is less than 12" between my seat and the one in front.
Flying out of Leh and over the mountains was an amazing view today. We first headed west towards Chilling and over the confluence of the Zanskar and Indus, where Shannon, Will, Ian and I rated last year then banked east and eventually south over amazing peaks and glaciers and what I assume was Tso Moriri, the high saline lake south of Pangong Lake. So many crazy high, steep and I assume unnamed peaks. Eventually we started coming out of the high mountains, the snow disappeared and the shining reflections off of many scattered metal roofs became more and more concentrated as we flew further south towards the planes of India. To the east 4-5 gigantic white peaks towered over the other mountains in China. And then we hit the planes and the clear blue skies, and the ground slowly disappeared as we approached the smoke and smog of the plains and Delhi.
I am now holed up in a small hotel somewhere near the International terminal where I will fly out of the noise, smell and traffic of Delhi tomorrow morning. Did get a beer and biryiani chicken but must wait until 8 tonight for hot water in the shower. The advertised wifi is only off and on and don't know if it will work for skypeing later. Also, the satellite TV has no international news, so I can't find out about Sandy. In fact only English channel is Comedy Central. At least it is warm.
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